GRANADA
At the foot of its imposing Alhambra, the city of Granada offers itself to the traveler brimming with vitality, art, and culture. The former Nasrid capital is a major tourist destination thanks to its monuments, the proximity of its ski resort, the valleys and ravines of the Alpujarra, and its renowned Costa Tropical. But Granada’s true “enchantment” lies in its neighborhoods, its squares, its people, and its gastronomy. The city is a travel destination where, especially in winter, as Federico García Lorca poetically wrote, “…one must delve into and explore one’s own intimacy and secrets.”
Granada in Winter
Sierra Nevada influences Granada’s climate, making its winters a season of frequent frosts.
But far from making it a “cold” city, it envelops it in the warmth of its white blanket, endowing it with a unique light. In this setting, Granada invites you to stroll, to explore, to get lost in it, to look up at the Montaña del Sol (Mountain of the Sun) admiring the reflection of its snow, to fall in love with its streets, alleyways, and narrow lanes. This article reveals hidden gems and establishments to enjoy a Granadan winter.
In the heart of the city
In the very center lies Plaza Nueva (New Square), which—despite its name—is the oldest square in Granada. It is perhaps one of the most popular starting points for tourist routes. It is located between the modern city center and the Carrera del Darro. From here begins the ascent to the Albaicín, either via the aforementioned emblematic street or through the narrow lanes that lead to the Calderería and its many tea shops. At one end of the square, opposite the start of the Carrera del Darro, stands a hospitality establishment with over thirty years of history: Café Lisboa. It’s a landmark for locals and tourists alike, where warming up with their house-roasted coffee and a pionono—a small, typical Granada pastry—becomes an unforgettable moment of the day. This place offers a menu of fresh and varied products, yet simple, and due to its location, service, and opening hours, it’s highly recommended when visiting the Nasrid city.
The Carrera del Darro
Strolling along the Carrera del Darro is a must in Granada during the winter, as the murmur of the river is even more audible at this time of year due to the increased water flow. The street is considered one of the most beautiful in the world: from it, you can admire the majestic silhouette of the Alhambra. At number 5 on that street stands an interesting and beautiful 17th-century Renaissance palace—whose interior houses a museum and shop—known as Patio de los Perfumes. Entering it is an olfactory journey where you discover the secrets of perfume making and learn the artisanal methods of its products. You could say they have managed to capture the essence of Granada in a bottle, as they have created a line of fragrances that evoke the city’s hidden corners. In the section dedicated to sales, you can purchase fragrances that capture the nuances that make Granada unique.
The Modern Center of Granada
One characteristic of the modern city center is its typically bourgeois character, with a strong presence of 19th-century architecture reflected in numerous Renaissance and Baroque buildings. Along its main street, Reyes Católicos, you’ll find a cosmopolitan Granada that, amidst shops and businesses, offers an unmissable gastronomic gem: La Fábula. The restaurant is located inside a hotel housed in a former palace. The entire building was renovated following the architectural style of old Andalusian palaces. Therefore, it boasts a distinctive garden with fountains and aromatic plants. Gastronomy comes alive here, guided by chef Ismael Delgado, awarded a Michelin star in 2008. His signature cuisine is tranquil and serene in a privileged and unique setting, transforming the act of eating into an awakening of the five senses.
Reflecting the Charm of the Past
Without leaving the heart of Granada, streets reflecting the charm of the past and the city’s current architectural harmony lead to the popular Plaza de Gracia. There, the establishment Puesto 43 embodies Granadan tradition and its connection to fish. For over a hundred years, this family business has been selecting the finest seafood, finally opening its doors in 2012 to a restaurant where “sitting down to a meal” is an experience that immerses you in Granada’s culinary culture. Recommended for four consecutive years by the Michelin Guide, its chef, Blanca Sánchez, delights diners by surprising them with the flavors of the sea, and through them, moving them deeply.
“To truly know Granada…”
As the poet wrote, and as stated at the beginning of this text, “to truly know Granada, one must delve into and explore our own innermost being and secrets.” In doing so, we allow ourselves to be guided not by grand monuments, but by enclaves of intangible and indescribable beauty such as the Paseo de los Tristes, the Realejo district, Sacromonte, the Carmen gardens of the Albaicín, the Puerta del Sol washhouse, the San Miguel Alto viewpoint, the San Nicolás viewpoint… to discover that the Nasrid city, like ourselves, pulsates with life and possesses feelings.